aditivos reológicos em cosméticos

8/19/2019 Aditivos Reológicos Em Cosméticos

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P U R E I N CO S M E T I C S

Rheological Additives

in Cosmetics


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Today’s successful cosmetics products

need the right rheological properties.

And the correct choice of rheological additive

enhances the product in production,

storage stability and application.

ELEMENTIS Specialties rheological additives

for aqueous and non-aqueous formulations

are valuable and proven tools for you to use.

Personal care, skin care, sun careand decorative cosmetics;

single-phase, suspension or emulsion;

all can benefit from

ELEMENTIS Specialties

rheological additives.

P UR E I N CO SME T I CS

Personal Care

Skin Care

Sun Care

Decorative Cosmetics


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Contents

Introduction 2

Cosmetics and Rheology 4

ELEMENTIS Specialties Rheological Additives 6

Hectorite - The Benefits 6

Aqueous-Phase Additives 7

• BENTONE® Hydrophilic Clays 7

Non-Aqueous-Phase Additives 9

• BENTONE® Organophilic Clays 9

• BENTONE GEL® 10/11

• THIXCIN® R Rheological Additive 12

Product Application and Selection 13

Incorporation & Equipment Guideline 14

INCI References 15

Applications Table 16/17

BENTONE®

BENTONE GEL®

NANOX™

THIXCIN®

are trade names of

ELEMENTIS Specialties


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Rheology is the science of flow. Every time a lotion is

poured, a cream squeezed from a tube or a lipstick

applied, rheology is involved. Even when products are

at rest, it plays an important part in controlling

stability and suspension.

Understanding a formulation’s rheological needs

enables you to create the best possible products.

The rheology of a system is described

in terms of its viscosity.

Viscosity is the resistance to flow and defined as:

Shear stress is the force per unit area applied and

shear rate is the resulting velocity gradient.

Cosmetics experience shear rates varying

from 0.001 s-1, from gravitational forces;

to over 20,000 s-1, when a cream is spread or

an aerosol antiperspirant sprayed (Fig 1).

Cosmetics and RheologyStrong partners to create the best possible products


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The way the viscosity changes at varying shear rates

greatly influences the overall product stability and

performance. A material which maintains a constant

viscosity, regardless of shear rate, has Newtonian flow

(Fig.2). Dilatant flow (Fig.2) is a form where viscosity

increases with shear, sometimes encountered in highly

pigmented/filled systems.

Pseudoplastic flow (Fig. 4), also known as shear thinning

behaviour, and typical of many commercial systems,

is when viscosity decreases with increasing shear rate.

Flow may require a specific stress to be initiated. This

particular stress value is known as the yield point.

A system having both shear thinning flow and a yield

point can be described as having plastic flow.

The rate of recovery of a system when stress is

removed is also very important. When a shear

thinning system shows delayed viscosity

recovery, it is described as thixotropic (Fig.3).

This is one of the most important types of flow in

cosmetics. Controlling the degree of thixotropy

enhances the application of a cream, eliminates

dripping of a roll-on antiperspirant or allows

brushmarks in a coat of nail lacquer to disappear,

leaving a smooth film.

Viscosity can be temperature dependent.

Correct choice of rheological additive allows you to

create the ideal flow characteristics (Fig. 1) and

also achieve thermostable rheology.

5


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ELEMENTIS Specialties rheological additives can be

broadly divided between aqueous-phase thickeners

and non-aqueous-phase thickeners.

But it is important to remember the advantages

of oil-phase viscosity modification that can greatly

improve emulsion based products.

ELEMENTIS Specialties additives for cosmetics are

based on naturally occurring materials:

highly refined and beneficiated

hectorite clay or castor oil derivatives.

ELEMENTIS SpecialtiesRheological Additives

for Cosmetics Improving aqueous, organic and

emulsion-based products


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Hectorite - The benefits

Hectorite is a unique swelling clay offering several

advantages. Hectorite’s special properties, compared

with bentonite, are:

• lower iron content

• lighter colour

• higher swelling capacity

• greater gel strength

• no crystalline silica

Due to its small size, platelet shape and large surface

area, hectorite is able to form strong, stable viscous gels.

Hectorite is a very effective thickener of water. Because

of this and its other exceptional properties, it forms the

basis of the BENTONE® hydrophilic clays.

BENTONE® Hydrophilic Clays

BENTONE® MA, EW, and LT rheological additives

provide thixotropy and suspension control to the

aqueous phase.

BENTONE® MA and EW additives form gels by producing

an open, 3-dimensional network of the individual clay

platelets as shown in Figure 5.

The two products are stable across the range pH 6-11

and offer good tolerance to electrolytes.

BENTONE® LT forms a similar network,

but it is strengthened by the presence of a special

cellulose, greatly enhancing stability and thickening

characteristics. BENTONE® LT is stable across a

broader range, pH 3-11, and is also the least

electrolyte-sensitive product.

BENTONE® MA and EW are in compliance with ECOCERT;

The ecological and organic cosmetics standards.

Aqueous-Phase Additives

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INCORPORATION Hydrophilic Clays

Wetting

• Medium to high-shear mixing

• Add clay to water before addition of otheringredients

• Disperse at moderate pH

Shear

• Low shear (< 10 ms-1)= long mixing time (> 30 mins)

• High shear (> 15 ms-1)= shorter mixing time (10-15 mins)

Time• 10 minutes hydration before adding other

ingredients

Heat

Water at up to 60°C (140°F) reduces hydration time

It is important to have only unadulterated water

present at the dispersion stage. Surfactants or

electrolytes should not be added until dispersion is

completed

For additional guidance see page 14


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BENTONE® rheological additives are non-abrasive.

The skin feel imparted by BENTONE® hydrophilic clays

is a pleasant silkiness, quite different to that

associated with the majority of cellulose, polymer

and polysaccharide-based thickeners.

Furthermore, as hectorite itself is insensitive to

temperature variations, the BENTONE® products impart

a thermostable viscosity control.

Surfactants can influence the rheological behaviour

of hydrophilic clays.

Non-ionic surfactants, if they are highly ethoxylated,

can adsorb onto the clay surface. This rarely causes

problems either in flow control or activity of the

formulation.

Anionic surfactants can act as dispersing agents and

weaken the gel structure. Alternatives that eliminate

or minimise any problems can normally be found.

However, cationic surfactants interact strongly and

should be avoided.

Organic and silicone-based liquids used in oil andwax-based cosmetics, and as the non-aqueous-phase in

emulsions, benefit greatly from ELEMENTIS Specialties

rheological additives. Outstanding rheological

properties are developed using BENTONE® organoclay

rheological additives in their powder form or,

even better, with BENTONE GEL® additives, their

predispersed forms.

The benefits gained are:

• thermostable viscosity control

• thixotropic flow

• suspension control of pigments and actives

• emulsion stabilisation

• silky skin feel

BENTONE® Organophilic Clays

Hectorite is now reacted with special vegetable

quaternary ammonium salts to produce organoclays

able to thicken and gel organic liquids. The correctchoice of BENTONE® additive is determined largely by

the polarity of the system to be thickened.

Additive Application

BENTONE® 27 V • Intermediate to high-polarity

organic systems such as esters

and triglycerides - for nail lacquers,

skin care, antiperspirants and

lip products

BENTONE® 38 V • Low to intermediate-polarity

organic systems such as volatile

silicones and mineral oil - for

antiperspirants, creams, lotions,

eye products and suntan products

9

Non-Aqueous-Phase Additives


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BENTONE® additives need to be efficiently dispersed

using high-shear equipment and then to be activated

with the optimum level of a chemical activator, such

as propylene carbonate.

BENTONE® organoclays form thixotropic gels by

developing hydrogen bond bridges between the

edges of adjacent platelets as shown in Figure 7.

BENTONE GEL®

BENTONE GEL® additives are optimally dispersed

and activated predispersions of ELEMENTIS Specialties

organoclays.

Benefits include:

• optimally dispersed

• high-shear dispersion not necessary

• no polar activation required

• easy to handle and use

• can be added at any appropriate andconvenient stage in manufacture

A wide range of gels made from various cosmetics oils,

esters and solvents are available.

The use of a BENTONE GEL® enables you, the formula-

tor, to achieve the maximum efficiency from the

organoclay without the need for careful shearing and

activation. On the production scale, time is saved

and the highest degree of reproducibility attained,

leading to potenial cost savings.


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INCORPORATION

BENTONE GEL® additives can be added at any

convenient suitable stage in the manufacturing cycle.

BENTONE GEL® additives are very high-viscosity, shearthinning products. To ensure good homogeneous

mixing is achieved, care must be taken to overcome

large viscosity differentials existing between the

BENTONE GEL® and the other lower-viscosity

components. Choice of mixing equipment and the

configuration within the mixing vessels are critical

factors in developing the optimum performance of

the BENTONE GEL® additive. The use of medium- to

high-shear mixing equipment is recommended.


Batch Processing

• Single-Phase Systems

Always add the BENTONE GEL®, under shear,

to a portion of the organic component or solvent

with which it is most compatible. Mix until

homogeneous before adding the other ingredients.

• Multi-Phase Systems (eg. emulsions)

As for the single phase, but always ensure the

BENTONE GEL® additive is thoroughly mixed in

before the emulsification stage.

Continuous processing

The BENTONE GEL® should be added to the oil phase at

any convenient point that meets the above guidelines

for the batch processing. In multi-manifold systems,

a flowable pre-mix of the BENTONE GEL® with acompatible oil or solvent should be made in a side pot.

Where only lower-shear mixing equipment is available,

stir the BENTONE GEL® alone, in a small mixing vessel,

if necessary, and then slowly add the most compatible

component by portions, always ensuring the mixture is

homogeneous at each stage.

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THIXCIN® R Rheological Additive

For the highest degree of thixotropy in aliphatic liquids,

THIXCIN® R additive is the product to use. In addition to

its effective rheological properties, it gives water

repellency, stabilises emulsions and acts as a stiffening

agent in lipsticks and ointments. It can also be used as

a dry binder in pressed powder systems.

(Where high-temperature resistance is needed,

BENTONE® or BENTONE GEL® additives are

recommended).

THIXCIN® R is a castor oil derivative. It requires

temperature-controlled activation within the range

55-60°C (130-140°F) and high-shear mixing to develop

its full structure.

THIXCIN® R is in compliance with ECOCERT; The ecologi-

cal and organic cosmetics standards.

INCORPORATION THIXCIN® R additive

Wetting

High-shear mixing

Add THIXCIN® R to oil

Disperse to deagglomerate

Heat

Temperature range 55-60°C (130-140°F)

Shear

Shear for 20 minutes within this temperature range

to activate

Cool

Maintain shear to below 35°C (95°F) when cooling


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Product Applicationand Selection Choosing the rightrheological additive

Cosmetic products range from pressed

dry powders to suspensions in liquids;

from single-phase solid or liquid

formulations to emulsions. The choice

of rheological additive and level of use

depends on the system and the desired

performance criteria (Table pages 20/21).

The properties imparted by the rheological

additive benefit different cosmetics in differentways. The advantages of using ELEMENTIS

Specialties rheological additives are

not always only the obvious ones, for instance:

Stick products (lipstick and antiperspirant)

• maintain homogeneity in molten and setting stages

• gain improved pay-out

• increase high-temperature integrity

• eliminate oil migration

• reduce “creasing” around lips and eyes

Mascara

• improve film-build

• increase water-resistance

• eliminate oil migration

Emulsions

• elevate drop-point temperatureof water-in-oil creams

• eliminate syneresis

• improve emulsion stability

• enable cold-process emulsification

• create novel viscosity effects

UV Sunscreen

• eliminate ultrafine Ti02 skin-whitening problems

• enhance sun protection factor (SPF)

• optimise use of sunscreen actives

• reduce separation and settlement

Antiperspirant Aerosols

• uniform distribution of active ingredients

• soft and dry skin feel

• significant less whitening

• reduced separation and settlement

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Incorporation & Equipment Guideline

Shear Development Low Low Medium Med-high Med-high Very high

Generic Type Paddle Propeller Planetary Rotor/stator Impeller Homogeniser

BENTONE® MA, BENTONE® EW and BENTONE® LT additives – powders needing high-energy mixing

Conditions Suitable only for Suitable for BENTONE® MA,EW, LT additive Suitable for

BENTONE® EW additive BENTONE®

Use highest speeds Use highest speeds and carefully MA, EW, LT

(> 3000 rpm). observe optimum mixer/vessel additives.

configuration.

Order of addition Clean water and rheological additive only.

Avoid addition of surfactants or electrolytes until dispersion completed.

Special factors BENTONE® EW < 5 BENTONE® MA 1500 rpm. adding other

ingredients

by increments.

Order of addition Gel first, then oil or solvent Add gel to portion of oil/solvent Add oil to

in ratio 60:40 gel to oil. under shear. Maintain shear gel stepwise.

Mix and add other until homogeneous.

components in steps.

Special factors Ensure mixture is Ensure mixture is homogeneous at each dilution stage.

homogeneous at each Particulate materials, such as antiperspirant salts

dilution stage until flowable will assist in the dispersion in low-viscosity media.

consistency achieved.

14


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INCI ReferencesAQUEOUS-PHASE ADDITIVES

BENTONE® MA Hectorite

BENTONE® EW Hectorite

BENTONE® LT Hectorite, Hydroxyethylcellulose

NON-AQUEOUS-PHASE ADDITIVES• POWDERS

BENTONE® 27 V Stearalkonium Hectorite

BENTONE® 38 V Disteardimonium Hectorite

THIXCIN® R Trihydroxystearin

MASTERGELS

• SOLVENTS/OILS

BENTONE GEL® CAO V Ricinus Communis, Stearalkonium Hectorite, Propylene Carbonate

BENTONE GEL® SS71 V Petroleum Distallates, Disteardimonium Hectorite, Propylene Carbonate

BENTONE GEL® DOA V Dioctyl Adipate, Disteardimonium Hectorite, Propylene Carbonate

BENTONE GEL® EUG V Octyldodecanol, Disteardimonium Hectorite, Propylene Carbonate

BENTONE GEL® GTCC V Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Stearalkonium Hectorite, Propylene Carbonate

BENTONE GEL® HSO V Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil, Disteardimonium Hectorite, Propylene Carbonate

BENTONE GEL® IHD V lsohexadecane, Disteardimonium Hectorite, Propylene Carbonate

BENTONE GEL® IPM V lsopropyl Myristate, Stearalkonium Hectorite, Propylene Carbonate

BENTONE GEL® ISD V lsododecane, Disteardimonium Hectorite, Propylene Carbonate

BENTONE GEL® LOI V Lanolin Oil, lsopropyl Palmitate, Stearalkonium Hectorite, Propylene Carbonate

BENTONE GEL® MIO V Mineral Oil, Disteardimonium Hectorite, Propylene Carbonate

BENTONE GEL® OMS V C11-12

lsoparaffin, Disteardimonium Hectorite, SD Alcohol Denat

BENTONE GEL® OP V Octyl Palmitate, Stearalkonium Hectorite, Propylene CarbonateBENTONE GEL® PTIS V Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate, Disteardimonium Hectorite, Propylene Carbonate

BENTONE GEL® PTM V Phenyl Trimethicone, Disteardimonium Hectorite, Triethyl Citrate

BENTONE GEL® TN V C12-15

Alkyl Benzoate, Stearalkonium Hectorite, Propylene Carbonate

BENTONE GEL® YVS V Mineral Oil, Disteardimonium Hectorite, SD Alcohol Denat

• VOLATILE SILICONE

BENTONE GEL® VS-5V Cyclopentasiloxane, Disteardimonium Hectorite, SD Alcohol Denat

BENTONE GEL® VS-5PC V Cyclopentasiloxane, Disteardimonium Hectorite, Propylene Carbonate

BENTONE GEL® VS-IPM V Cyclopentasiloxane, lsopropyl Myristate, Disteardimonium Hectorite, SD Alcohol Denat

Some of the products described within this brochure may not be available in all countries.

Please check local availability with your ELEMENTIS Specialties sales office or distributor.

Above list is a product guideline.

BENTONE® EW, BENTONE® 27 V and BENTONE® 38 V are also available as irradiated grades for controlled mircobial content.

Tailor-made products are available on request.


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ELEMENTISSpecialtiesRheological Additivesfor Cosmetics

S t a b i l i t y

S u s p e n s i o n

T h i c k e n i n g / T h i x o t r o p y

T h e r m o s t a b l e r h e o l o g y

S k i n f e e l i m p r o v e m e n t

U V a c t i v e s e n h a n c e m e n t

B E N T O N E ® M A

B E N T O N E ® E W

B E N T O N E ® L T

B E N T O N E ® 2 7 V

B E N T O N E ® 3 8 V

T H I X C I N ® R

B E N T O N E G E L ® S S 7 1 V

B E N T O N E G E L ® C A O V

B E N T O N E G E L ® D O A V

B E N T O N E G E L ® E U G V

B E N T O N E G E L ® G T C C V

B E N T O N E G E L ® H S O V

B E N T O N E G E L ® I H D V

B E N T O N E G E L ® I P M V

B E N T O N E G E L ® I S D V

B E N T O N E G E L ® L O I V

B E N T O N E G E L ® M I O V

B E N T O N E G E L ® O M S V

B E N T O N E G E L ® O P V

B E N T O N E G E L ® P T I S V

B E N T O N E G E L ® P T M V

B E N T O N E G E L ® T N V

B E N T O N E G E L ® V S - 5 V

B E N T O N E G E L ® V S - 5 P C V

B E N T O N E G E L ® V S / I P M V

Highly recommended Recommended

Applications

Properties imparted byApplications ELEMENTIS Specialtiesproducts

Aqueous-phase Thickeners

Antiperspirant Aerosol

Roll-on

Stick

Cream

Deodorant Roll-on

Stick

Eye Cosmetics Shadow Solvent-borne

Emulsion

Pencil

Mascara Solvent-borne

Emulsion

Lip Products Lipstick

Gloss Roll-on

Pot

Chapstick

Make-up Blushers & Foundations

Pressed Powders

Skin Care Creams-O/W

Creams-W/O

Creams-cold process

Lotions

Ointments

Hand cleansers

Sun Care Creams-O/W

Creams-W/O

Lotions

Oils

Covert UV protection

Sunblock sticks

After-sun

Hair Care Creams & Dressings

Shampoos

Conditioners

Nail Polish

P r o d u c t s

Non-aqueous-phase Thickeners

Sample formulation guides are available upon request


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Before using any of our products please consult our Safety Data Sheets.

The information in this publication is, to the best of our knowledge,true and accurate, but since the conditions of use are beyond our control,no warranty is given or to be implied in respect of such information.In every case, caution must be exercised to avoid violation or infringementof statutory obligations and any rights belonging to a third party.We are, at all time, willing to study customers’ specific outlets involvingour products in order to enable their most effective use.

ELEMENTIS SpecialtiesConsumer Products

EUROPE Pegasuspark

De Kleetlaan 12 A, bus 3

B-1831 Diegem, Belgium

Tel: +32 2 790 76 00

Fax: +32 2 790 76 60

e-mail: [email protected]

Technical Centre

ELEMENTIS GmbH

Stolberger Strasse 370

50933 Cologne

Germany

Tel: +49 (0)221 485 2900

Fax: +49 (0)221 485 2910

U.S. P.O. Box 700 - Hightstown

NJ 08520 - USA

Tel: +1 609 443 2500 -

Fax: +1 609 443 2422

e-mail: [email protected]

Visit our website:

www.elementis-specialties.com

Local representative

aditivos reológicos em cosméticos

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